Guerlain poured a bottle of yellow, smoky ethylvannilin into his father's creation, GUERLAIN: Jicky (1889). It also includes natural vanilla, and it's this combination that makes this perfume its autumnal darkness rather than turning it into a Crème Anglaise. GUERLAIN insists on ordering this impure grade of vanillin even with today's improved chemical process available. It's the mother of all oriental perfumes.

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Bergamot opening if there ever was one; then iris, jasmine rose; then the most beautiful base of Guerlinade, opopnax, vanillin, labdanum.